Cool Weather Brings on Lady Bugs

First, an update on what's new about the lady beetles - absolutely nothing.

The beetles do not lay eggs in the walls and they are not reproducing indoors which is what some people claim causes the large numbers of beetles seen. Most of those stories
come from people who think that the lady beetles hatching from eggs look just like the ones you see. Lady beetle larvae (immatures) bear no resemblance to the adults and these larvae form pupa which subsequently transforms into the adult (not to be confused with the Transformers in the movie).

We still don't have the magic bullet insecticide that will be durable enough
to keep lady beetles from finding some entry points. Even if we had a
chemical that might work, there's still the issue of covering all critical areas
on the house. Seriously, the last thing we need are people blasting away
at their house with their garden hose sprayer and raining chemical down
on themselves, their deck, kids and pets.

People googling for lady beetles (not the same as bobbing for apples) will
see reports of studies showing camphor or other chemicals repelling lady
beetles. Yup... these chemicals will repel them in laboratory studies.
So, if you live in a laboratory, you can manage the beetles. Let's
think practical for a second - even if the camphor did repel the beetles:
a) Where do you place it? in every wall voids, b) How would you apply it?

The question has come up about lady beetles biting. There have been
reports that the beetles periodically 'nip' when landing on someone. This
is different from the people on airline flights who have several nips *before*
landing. We don't have any practical advice on avoiding/preventing these
"casual encounters" (maybe, bite back??)

We still recommend the tried-and-true method of vacuuming up wayward
beetles indoors, although this recommendation rarely appeases those irate
callers who then make rude, socially unacceptable and physically impossible
suggestions as to what you can do with vacuum cleaner bags full of beetles.
One potential problem with vacuuming up the beetles is the odor from the
accumulating dead and/or squished beetles inside the vacuum cleaner bags,
particularly if the bags are not changed frequently. This can actually be an
issue for people who do become sensitized to the beetles and might develop
allergic reactions. You can suggest that they insert a knee-high stocking into
the vacuum's extension hose and then secured it with a rubber band before
putting the attachment back on. This allows you to trap the beetles inside
the stocking, which then conveniently closes up at the end with the rubber
band when you remove it. You can also simply tie a knot in the end of the
stocking. You then have a few options. Some people have tried keeping
the beetles in the refrigerator over the winter and then release them into
their gardens in the following spring. Unfortunately, many (likely most) of
the beetles will not survive this long winter's nap in your refrigerator.
The other choice is to freeze them and just discard them. Many people
are not inclined to put insects in their freezers but they simply toss the
beetles back outdoors, some many very simply find their way back in.

Of course, we also give the usual suggestion of getting a bucket of caulk
and sealing every possible opening through which the beetles can enter.
In many cases, this will often generate the same suggestion to you that was
made about the vacuum cleaner bag full of beetles.

The bottom line is that the beetle invasion can be minor and "An Inconvenient
Truth", but at times the numbers can reach thousands and can become
more than a simple irritation to your nerves to a real irritation to your
respiratory system and serve as an asthma trigger. So, while we make
jokes about this situation, it can become a real issue for which we simply
have no good solutions.


Our information about lady beetles can be found at:

http://insects.ncsu.edu/harmonia.htm

Information from Michael Waldvogel, Extension Associate Professor and Extension Specialist

NCDA&CS Reports

Beginning Nov. 1, the N.C. Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services will no longer routinely mail out paper copies of agronomic reports. This policy will apply to reports for soil tests and nematode assays, as well as plant tissue, waste, solution and soilless media analyses.

All these reports are readily available through the NCDA&CS Agronomic Division’s Web site, www.ncagr.gov/agronomi.

“By making the switch to electronic-only reports, the NCDA&CS will work within its limited budget to save significantly on postage, printing and paper costs,” said Dr. Colleen Hudak-Wise, director of the Agronomic Division. “Although environmental and fiscal benefits are driving this change, clients should also see increases in convenience and efficiency. Online reports are available to clients faster than mailed reports and make record keeping much easier.”

“Copies can be easily downloaded and saved, and the analytical data can be exported into spreadsheet format,” Hudak-Wise said.

Eventually, the NCDA&CS would like to notify all clients via e-mail when their reports are available online. Clients who provide a valid e-mail address on their sample information form, or who register an e-mail address with the Agronomic Division online, can receive electronic notification. In the interim, all other clients will receive a postcard with instructions on how to find their reports.

Clients who visit the Agronomic Division home page should select the “Find Your Report” link from the left-column navigation bar. This link takes visitors into the division’s laboratory-information site, known as PALS. For most people, using the “Quick Report Search” link is the most convenient way to access reports.
Basic instructions are outlined at www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/reportsearch.htm. Anyone who has difficulty using the PALS report-search feature or has questions can call (919) 733-2655 for assistance during regular weekday office hours.

Bramble Choirs

Gina Fernandez, Small Fruit Specialist
North Carolina State University

This checklist was originally developed for
blackberry growers in North Carolina. Many of
the items apply to raspberry production as well.
You may have to adjust your work activities
either earlier or later depending on your
location. For more detailed information, check
the Southern Region Integrated Bramble
Management Guide and the Southeast
Regional Bramble Production Guide at:
http://www.smallfruits.org/SmallFruitsRegGuide
/index.htm

FALL
Plant growth and development
√ Primocanes continue to grow but
slow down
√ Flower buds start to form
√ Primocane leaves senesce late fall
Pruning and trellising
√ Spent floricanes should be removed
asap
√ Optimal time to prune is after the
coldest part of the season is over.
However pruning can start in late fall if
plantings are large (late winter for
smaller plantings).
√ Start trellis repairs after plants have
defoliated
Weed management
√ Many summer weed problems can be
best managed in the fall and winter
using preemergent herbicides.
Determine what weeds have been or
could be a problem in your area. Check
with your states agricultural chemical
manual and local extension agent for
the best labeled chemicals to control
these weeds.
Insect and disease scouting
Continue scouting for insects and diseases.
Remove damaged canes as soon as possible.
√ Check the Southern Regional Bramble
integrated Management Guide for
recommendations.
http://www.smallfruits.org
Planting

Cutflower Production Workshop

Are you interested in adding cut flower production to your operation?
Are you currently growing cut flowers and looking for the latest
production information? The NC Cooperative Extension Service, McDowell
Center is offering a program on cut flower production for small growers.
The program will be held on Thursday, October 22nd, at 2:00 pm in the
Extension Conference room, 60 East Court Street in Marion NC.

Craig Adkins, Extension Area Specialized Agent - Commercial Horticulture
will be speaking on all aspects of cut flower production including, site
selection, species selection, fertilization, pest control and more.
Meredith McKissick, of Sweet Earth Flower Farm will be speaking about
her experience growing and marketing cut flowers. Meredith has
experience growing flowers and marketing them at tailgate markets and
for weddings and other events. She will also be talking about 3-5
different annual cuts that can be easily grown for each spring, summer,
and fall.

This program is free but pre registration is required by calling the
Extension Office at 652-8104 or by emailing Jane McDaniel at
Jane_McDaniel@ncsu.edu by October 20th. For additional information
please call 828-652-8104.

Burning Guidelines

The memorandum of understanding between the N.C. Department of Environment and Natural Resources - Division of Air Quality and the N.C. Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services sets guidelines for acceptable burning at farms, primarily to control diseases or pests as well as some crop residues. Although it remains illegal to burn man-made materials, the state open burning rule allows some exceptions for the burning of plant materials — such as land-clearing and acceptable agricultural practices.

The following website is a news release from NCDA&CS announcing the burn law. You can also get a free brochure from the Division of Air Quality describing what can and cannot be burnt.

http://www.agr.state.nc.us/paffairs/release/2009/8-09agburning.htm

http://www.ncair.org.

Weed Update

Weeds don't take holidays.

While we are thinking about a holiday trip to the mountains or the coast -- weeds are going to keep doing what they do best -- reproducing. Summer annual weeds are going to seed with wild abandon. Although you cannot stop seed production you can sure reduce the amount of seeds produced by controlling summer annuals now. While herbicides like glyphosate work on mature weeds, the time it takes to die from glyphosate treatments will allow a lot of seeds to mature before plants succumb to the inevitable.

Fall applications work better you say?
I had a salesman once try to explain to me how bentazon (Basagran TO) worked really well on Yellow Nutsedge in early Fall. My response was -- "well, so does frost". Seriously, nutsedge has been making tubers for months but it is still a good idea to kill what you still have to prevent even more tubers from forming. Nutsedge can be controlled by glyphosate or glufosinate or bentazon But please, next year resolve to get serious about nutsedge earlier in the season.

Fall applications of glyphosate do work better on many perennial weeds. In particular, deciduous woody weeds are generally well controlled with late summer or early fall applications of glyphosate. But, you often don't see the results until next spring when plants begin to grow -- ahh, then the fun begins. New growth, if it occurs, will be stunted, malformed, and yellowed. Plants usually die back but often will start new growth after a time. When this occurs, treat again with an appropriate herbicide such as glyphosate or triclopyr for the one--two punch that knocks your weeds flat.

But don't forget to plan ahead --
Winter weeds have already started to emerge in some areas, so get your preemergence herbicide applications out soon to prevent winter annuals like henbit, chickweed and annual bluegrass from turning your Thanksgiving celebration into another gardening labor day.


Joseph C. Neal
Professor and Extension Specialist -- Weed Science
Department of Horticultural Science

Fall Webworms

Fall webworm tents are prominent features of many landscapes this time of year. They set up shop in pecan, walnut, American elm, hickory, fruit, some maples, persimmon and sweetgum trees. They are well protected from contact insecticides within their water proof tent. In addition, fall webworms expand their tent as they feed rather than foray out to feed and return the way eastern tent caterpillars do. Look for large silken tents at the ends of branches. All the caterpillars are in the tent, so if tents are pruned from a tree the problem is solved. For larger infestations, use a systemic insecticide that will move into the plant tissue. This will ensure that caterpillars die when they consume leaves. Some systemic products are acephate, TriStar, and Acelepryn, which can be applied as foliar or drench applications. For recommendations, see http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/shrubs/note07/note07.html.